929 Bar
42-45 27th St, Long Island City
The Place: A Chinese cocktail and vinyl bar in the back of a Taiwanese take-out spot.
The Time: Wednesday January 31, 6:45pm. Hi, it’s been a minute. I’ve been in my lil writing cave for the last few months working on my next big project and I finally completed the first draft so I am back out in the world and ready for a cocktail! I’m meeting a friend in Long Island City for dinner so I thought I’d carpe diem this thing and treat myself to a drink or two beforehand.
The Vibe: Anytime I read or hear about a bar or restaurant that seems cool, I flag it in my Google maps. It’s gotten sliiiiggghttttllyy out of hand–currently I have 1,329 places saved all over the world, and like, realistically, when will I ever be in Manaus, Brazil? (But if I ever am, I’m going to this indigenous restaurant! See, super useful.) I have 929 Bar flagged on my handy-dandy Google maps and it’s the closest bar to where I’m meeting my friend so here I am! It’s behind this tiny take-out place, called Gulp, so I guess you could call it a speakeasy, but is it really a speakeasy if there’s a big sign out front that says “BAR OPEN”? Anyway. It’s dark and sexy, with a small bar on the left and a handful of tables beyond it on a little platform, sectioned off by frosted glass. The bar is backlit by swanky red lights, there are old Chinese movie posters on the walls, and a large vinyl record collection in the back with a turntable. I’m the only one at the bar, and though I can’t see the tables, I can hear that there’s a few groups of friends. I guess 929 falls into the elusive category of “listening bars” because of the focus on vinyl, but it’s so quiet in here – does a listening bar mean you get to listen to other people’s conversations? It’s how I know there’s a birthday boy in the house! (I made the crucial error of finishing my book on the train here, so I’m forced to listen, almost by default.) I’m actually surprised I don’t overhear a Tinder date, since this place seems like a primo first-date-spot. Around 7, it starts to fill up, and thankfully they adjust the music based on the number of people. It begins to feel a bit more like a fun bar rather than a drink sanctuary.
The Last Emperor at 929 Bar
The Bartender: There seem to only be two people working here: a host/server and a bartender. The bartender’s really nice, walks me through some of his favorite things on the menu, answers my questions. I also see him send adorable shots in a bespoke wooden carrying case over to the birthday group (and hear their cheers of glee).
The Drank: The menu is still on a QR code but at least it’s on a little cassette tape, an adorable detail. The cocktails (most of which are the now-standard New York City price of $18) all feature Chinese and Taiwanese ingredients and flavors, and they’re all named after Cantonese and Mandarin pop songs (I know this because it’s explained on the menu, not because I’m an expert on retro Canto- and Mando-pop music). First, I get The Last Emperor, made of milk-tea-infused Taiwanese baijiu, plum liqueur, pineapple juice and an egg white. It’s a yummy, tropical baijiu sour, with a backdrop of tea notes; certainly an accessible way to introduce baijiu-novices to the spirit. 929 is connected to Gulp so you can also order some Taiwanese bar snacks.
Was I Hit On?: No, but I’m soon joined at the bar by four friends, one of whom is clearly a regular since he fist-bumps the bartender. I order a second drink, this time the Cat’s Eye, a Negroni-variation made with Guilder’s red oolong gin, coffee vermouth and Italicus. The guy next to me (the fist-bumper) asks what I think of the cocktail, “your honest opinion please.” I say it’s delicious, then ask him why he cares so much. Turns out, Guilder’s is a new gin company that he recently started with his business partner (sitting two bar stools down) and 929 is one of the first bars to feature them on a cocktail menu. It’s a small world after all!
Should You Drink Here Alone?: Yeah sure! I’m never in Queens (as might be apparent based on the ridiculously low number of Queens posts on this site) but I’d absolutely come back. It’s fun and relaxed, a niche concept without feeling exclusive. Next time, I want to come when a DJ is spinning those vinyls to really experience everything 929 Bar has to offer.
