Hawksmoor

109 E 22nd St at Park Ave, Flatiron

The Place: A British steakhouse chain where I get a classic NYC steakhouse meal: a martini, of course.

The Time: Sunday May 25, 6pm. A long holiday weekend is usually a great time to go to buzzy hot spots you otherwise can’t get into–or so I thought. I’m in Flatiron with an hour to spare before going to a friend’s very cool cocktail pop-up. After successfully NOT getting a seat at the bar at either Rezdôra or Gramercy Tavern (“it shouldn’t be that long, maybe an hour?”), I find myself at Hawksmoor, where my only Google map note on this classic British steakhouse reads: “get the martini here.” Okay! I’ll do that!

Ultimate Hawksmoor Martini

The Vibe: To be honest, I’d never realize this was an import from the UK if I didn’t know it, as it has modern steakhouse vibes that fit right into an art-deco Manhattan aesthetic. The barroom is separated from the dining room, making this sprawling restaurant feel more intimate. I’m thrilled when the host leads me to a nearly empty bar, with bar top lamps out of a university library, wooden back bar shelves housing vintage glass carafes and cocktail books alongside bottles. In addition to the bar seating, there are bar tables and high-tops, with emerald green seats and banquettes. There are big open windows so the light from 22nd Street shines in, and beautiful soaring ceilings. (Apparently this building was an assembly hall from the 19th century.) There are two gents to my left, and a couple to my right. The guy in the couple clearly used to work here; he and his partner aren’t left alone once as every employee who walks by stops to hug him and shoot the shit. I love seeing this kind of camaraderie among staff–it’s clearly a good place to work (or everyone just loves this dude and misses him terribly).

The Bartender: There are two ladies behind the bar, in addition to another service bartender and other helping hands. Makes sense that a restaurant this big would have a large staff. What strikes me as unusual is that there’s clearly no employee uniform (not even a trendy dinner jacket or asymmetrical waistcoat!). It gives a sense of casualness and personality that doesn’t necessarily read as “steakhouse,” and I’m into it.

The Drank: While I’m tempted to order a martini the way I like it (50/50, gin, olives and a twist, thanks for asking), I get their Ultimate Hawksmoor Martini, obeying my original note-to-self. It’s made with Fords gin, Little City dry vermouth, and lemon oil, and comes with a side of those delish beautiful Cerignola olives. When the bartender tells me the martini is on the drier side, I ask for it to be on the wetter side. (Wet the drys, dry the wets.) I also lean into the steakhouse mentality and order a Caesar salad and fries to pair with my martini, though they only have “beef fat fries” so I opt for hash browns instead. They’re just a different shape of potato, y’know? The martini is tasty, though I do wish I had just gone for a 50/50. It’s a really good Caesar–crunchy, salty, lots of umami. I love how the croutons are craggly (no uniform, just like the staff!) so each bite is a little different. The hash browns rule. They’re golden brown squares of deliciousness with a tart and creamy malt vinegar aioli. I feel great.

Was I Hit On?: Absolutely not. In fact, I kind of wish I used to work here so I would get the kind of attention Mr. Former Employee is getting.

Should You Drink Here Alone?: Sure! What a relaxing hour I spent sipping my martini and reading my book at the Hawksmoor. I wish the same for you.

A perfect evening IMO