Gus's Chop House

215 Union St btw Henry and Clinton Sts, Carroll Gardens

The Place: A cozy, tavern-like restaurant that, despite its name, offers a lot more than just chops.

The Time: Monday, February 27, 6:45pm. I had some errands to run, including selling some clothes at a thrift shop, and on my walk home, I pass Gus’s Chop House. This is why I always opt for cash instead of store credit – let me spend my “hard-earned” money on a drink instead of yet another skirt I’ll never wear. (As much as I try, I’m just not a skirt person. To thine ownself be true.)

The Malpensa at Gus’s Chop House

The Vibe: I am the only one here. It’s probably due to the impending snowstorm, but there’s something about an empty restaurant that’s kind of unnerving. It’s beautiful in here, though, and the staff is really welcoming. The space has the warm wooden feel of a tavern, but it’s roomy enough to still be bright and open, not cramped. There are white brick walls, a big oak bar, comfy leather bar stools. I came here a couple times when it was a Belgian place that didn’t know if it wanted to be a restaurant or a sports bar; Gus’s did a great job with the remodel, including putting a fireplace where the TV once was. The playlist sounds like the Stevie Wonder Spotify radio station, a go-to for fun, agreeable bar music. Two guys eventually come in for dinner, then a family of three, then another family of four. Gus appears to have integrated himself into the neighborhood nicely. It doesn’t hurt that the owners also run Popina, another local standby, so they know what the people want. 

The Bartender: Steven! Steven is a delight. I’ve been his position before; being behind the bar with nothing to do and only one person to talk to, but luckily we get along great. We talk about a ton of things: mezcal, erratic New York weather, destination weddings, working at small bars whose chefs have ambitions bigger than the tiny kitchens can allow. You know, the usual stuff.

The Drank: Their cocktail menu is streamlined, with only two house cocktails and a handful of classics. First I try an original, the Malpensa. It’s got apple brandy, falernum, Amaro Nonino and lemon. It’s refreshing, fruity and very drinkable. I also order the carrots, which come with chili, goat cheese, citrus and hazelnuts. YUM. I’m having such a nice time chatting with Steven, so I get another round of both food and drink. This time a Black Manhattan, made with Averna instead of sweet vermouth, and the panisse, which satisfies the same itch as getting a plate of fries, but feels a little fancier. (Steven also informs me that the fries are cooked in beef fat and I’m reminded that this place is, indeed, a chop house.)

Was I Hit On?: Absolutely not. As I’m about to leave, a couple comes in, clearly regulars. They give Steven a gift, a graphic novel or comic of some kind. While I’m walking out the door, they’re explaining why they chose that specific one for him. So if anyone was hit on tonight, it was Steven.

Should You Drink Here Alone?: Sure! Gus’s is an inviting, homey spot that’s a welcome addition to the neighborhood, even if you’re not into the “chop house” of it all.